Searching for Baguio (part 3)

Anywhere we go, it's always a food trip.  In Baguio, fFor value for money dining we always go to O Mai Khan - eat all you can mongolian buffet for onlyP180!  Manage 3 bowls sulit na.  Winner combination for that night was my SIL's curry. Yum!

The first time hubby and I had lunch at Woodnymph on Military Cut-off road was in 2003.  It managed to top my best Korean restaurant list.  I loved the sweet marble potato appetizer they had.  And the kalbichim was scrumptious!  It was just the right mix of sweet and spicy with the beef soft and tender.  We brought the family there in 2005 and it was a hit with everyone, making it a must-eat place when in Baguio.  We also discovered that this location was previously the house of an old family friend where my parents and siblings stayed in before.  Small world.   This trip we had dinner there and ordered the usuals - grilled pork and chicken, chap chae and kalbi chim.  The food was still delicious but there was something different with the kalbi chim - it was more orange than brown, less flavorful.  Later, we found out the old cook was stationed in their branch at SM.


When we stayed at the Manor at Camp John Hay in 2001, we raved about their breakfast buffet. They had the best longganisa and the best waffles.  For those 2 items alone, the price for the buffet was well worth it.  In the succeeding trips however, the waffles weren't available anymore.  So we were planning to try the buffet at the Baguio Country Club (BCC).   But, Pitz, the waiter, assured us waffles were back.  And yes they were!  Ummm, yes they were disappointing.  It was soft and pancake-y.  I guess next trip back we should really try BCC's buffet.  

The creamed butter was still good though.

Breakfast or not however, the view from the manor is still great for photo ops.

And then there is El Shalan ni Kabadjo in Camp John Hay (CJH).  They seem to have bigger and healthier horses and a safer and more scenic trail.  Signboard said  P200 for 30 minutes when littler one rode on Saturday.  Sunday, signboard was the same but the guides were charging P50 more for an additional person on the horse.  I would have raised hell for the arbitrary change in prices but I did not want to disappoint little one who finally got the courage to ride.

Little one was brave as a knight... Squealed in delight and patted the horsie.
 
Pasalubong from Baguio is always easy.  There are so many goodies to buy.  The Good Shepherd Convent near Minesview park makes the best Ube jam in the world.  5 stars for its smooth creamy consistency, sweet but not too sweet taste, always freshly made and when stored properly lasts more than 3 weeks in the ref.  In recent years they've added more items on their product list like chocolate crinkles (its ok, but i've tasted better.  In Baguio, try everything nice in mile hi center at CJH), alfajor cookies (really sweet), oatmeal cookies (not too good, should be called peanut baking soda cookies), lenguas de gato (pretty good second to nancy's which i can not find anymore - i guess that makes this #1).  

view from Good Shepherd's ridge
The Baguio City Market is also another great place to go pasalubong shopping.  They have everything: Pine trivets (i think its the needle?) 3 for P50; walis tambo P50each, baked goodies like Tantamco's, rico's, Baguio Tartland; Peanut Brittle (get Romano's for whole peanuts); blankets - they have the Ilocos weave and the China made flannel; wood carvings; caps, shawls, vegetables, fruits....  Are those huge Sagada oranges for real?  Really grown in Sagada? I wouldn't know but the red orange ones were really sweet and juicy.  Only P80/kg. It was refreshing.  

Lots of people arrive by 7 am

Had to take the kids to more fun activities.  Under the scorching heat of the sun, we took a boat ride in Burnham park.  Hubby was eager to row around in circles.  We carefully avoided the walls (Boat renter warned us we may get stuck because of shallow waters).  It was a tiring 30 minutes (I took the pictures) but the kids seemed to like taking turns holding the oars, pretending to row.  And the different shaped boats were kinda cute - from afar.  Up close, they were kinda shabby and too close, they bumped us.




Yep, the water was neon green.


After boating was biking.  We chose the area with the smaller bikes.  We got tricycles that we pushed around (for kids who can't pedal).  It was a work out.   It wasn't just difficult to push the bikes around, it was also hard to make our way around the bumpy and narrow road and avoid the little rascals who drove like mad max in thunderdome.    

We made a quick stop at the the Botanical Garden (aka Igorot Village).  It was nice and there were many beautiful flowers but there was a feeling of neglect.  it wasn't just the landscape, it was also the dwindling number of Igorots in the area, most of them elderly.  It used to be they were everywhere and for a small amount, you could take pictures of them or with them.  

 




I still enjoy the cool weather and fun shopping in Baguio City.  But there is something amiss.  I remember being able to just look out the window and have a feeling of tranquility come over me.  Now, i look out and I see overcrowding - buildings and people.  I'm all for progress and activity.  But for me, Baguio's charm lay in its ability to make me feel rested, rejuvenated and alive. 

Searching for Baguio (part 2)

We had to do all the touristy activities.  I wanted the kids to remember Baguio as I did - the fun vacation place. 

Rosebowl was our first lunch stop.  It's been around for ages and it has become a Baguio landmark.  Strange that while my family always eats there, I'm never with them to try it.  Was it open or closed?  Why was that part of the road blocked?  Ah, the next door building, a department store was on fire the day before.

   

l 
The burnt building

An online review said that Rosebowl had the BEST chopsuey in the country.  Wow, I had to try that.  Chopsuey is so common here, i was curious if there was really such a thing as the BEST chopsuey. 

 
In the back, pancit canton with mixed vegetables.  In front, fish fillet with tofu.

The chopsuey was chopsuey.  Like any other chopsuey.  I suppose what made it better than some was the fresh Baguio vegetables.  Portion sizes were large.  The tofu (actually tokwa) in the fish dish had a sour taste.  We didn't eat that.  The fried chicken was good though.  Crispy and juicy.  Service was fast and the waiters were attentive yet cranky.  Maybe they were traumatized by the fire the day before...

Ibay's silver craft store is a nice place to get gifts or tokens.   You can find stuff for a hundred bucks all the way to a thousand, depending on the design.  This main store was located in the Japanese garden.  Sayang, there was a garbage dump that smelled awful near the entrance and the monument was full of graffiti. 

 
Japanese garden monument


The Pink Sisters convent is always a nice place to go to, even for a quick visit.  The compound is quiet and solemn.  When you enter the church there is an instant feeling of peace that comes over you. The pews are separated from the altar by a gate.  Beyond the gate was a lone pink sister praying in the middle.  

The Baguio Cathedral on the other hand was busier, larger, less personal.  



The Baguio Cathedral

Ofcourse we visited The Mansion.  I don't know anyone who has ever been inside.  It's weird to have "The Mansion" printed at the building's facade.  The guards at the gate sell some kind of net.  I doubt if its for fishing - maybe its a hammock?  


Across The Mansion is the pool effect that most State houses have.  But it doesn't mirror the house.  I think its already part of Wright Park's upper deck. 


This area is the beginning of tourist-y.  Vendors are outside.  Lots of parked cars and lots of tourists lining for a photo op.  The crowds get even thicker at Wright Park down below.  This is where you can ride a horse in the pen or go out on a trail.  What I love about Wright Park is the inihaw na mais (grilled corn).  I always pick the whitest one with large kernels.  (The yellow one is the sweet corn kind.)  The native corn kernels are sticky and chewy.  They slather it with margarine and salt.  It is wonderful!  a trip to Baguio is not complete with out one or two pieces of this corn.

More touristy spots in Part 3.

Searching for Baguio (part 1)

As a kid, I remember Baguio to be THE vacation spot.  The city of pines.  It only took us 4 hours to go up by Kennon road.  And while I don't think the roads were done or were in any better condition, there were much less cars on the road.  Oh the excitement I felt when we had the last pit stop at that round restaurant at the junction of Rosario.  Up Kennon, it was a must to stop at the Lion's head.  With open windows, the cool breeze on my face eased any car sickness i felt.  And I smelled the trees.  It was the scent of vacation!

It was ages before we went back up especially after the 1990 earthquake.  But, after John Hay's Manor was put up, life came back to Baguio City, and we started going up the mountain again. We saw so much change in the last 3 visits - 2001, 2003 and 2005.  But this trip (april 2008), I realized sadly, Baguio has lost its charm.

These past few trips, we used the more reliable Marcos Highway going up, albeit about 30 minutes longer.  Not a lot of trees or forest-y smells but it was wider and less steep.  I've always enjoyed seeing the Marcos head.  It was always something to point out - "can you imagine he carved his face on the mountain??!!!" It was a testament to his vanity and narcissism, an excellent conversation piece. And in the previous 3 trips, I would see less and less of it.  This trip, I reached Baguio without seeing it at all! They knocked it out of the mountain.  While I have no love for the former president, i do feel they  blew up a piece of history. 

The bust before and after the explosion
Marcos Head ala Mount Rushmore courtesy of bbc news

Marcos Highway

We booked ourselves at a reasonably priced 5 year old hotel (we found on the internet) on the highway, 2 minutes before the rotonda - Summer Place Hotel.   With their 50% off promo it was very reasonable. A junior suite for 3 nights was only P5250, with 2 queen sized beds and a very spacious bathroom, it accomodated us well - 3 adults and 2 kids.  It wasn't the Shangri-La but it was clean, homey and very spacious.  The staff was friendly and helpful and the location was accessible.


From the hotel we had a view of a part of the city.  Yes, some greenery but alot of roofs.  Gray G.I. sheets interspersed with the foliage.


Baguio seemed to be more crowded and traffic seemed to be more knotted.  Gone are the days when you can reach the other side of the city in just 10 to 15 minutes.  Now everything had a line.  And the flyover! Yes, a flyover from marcos highway to Maharlika road (i think), bypassing the rotonda where Petron and Pancake house are.  Man, is this still Baguio?  Ah, the price of progress.  Shortly after the flyover is SM City Baguio just where Pines Hotel used to be.  


It was a monstrosity!  I'm a (somewhat) patron of SM but really... Baguio City?  

Next: Searching for Baguio - Part 2 - Touristy Things to see and do